Documentary Video: Greg Long and the Psychology of Big Wave Surfing. Of the notorious and dedicated big wave surfers, Greg Long is a stand out. You’ve seen footage of him picking off the wave of the day at the big wave events. Here’s a look inside his head.
The film’s title is, Sine Qua Non (Without which, [there is] nothing). It’s a 24-minute documentary produced by The Inertia. It provides an intimate look at the mental and physical elements behind Greg Long’s quest to surf the biggest waves on the planet.
Today’s big wave surfer is entirely a modern creation – dependent upon online forecasting models to track monster swells, but also the window when the biggest sets should show. As the technology behind big wave tracking gets more refined, we can expect to see bigger waves ridden more often – with room for inspiring athletes like Greg Long. Go chase that swell.